Ar For Beginners - Google I / O '18 started an interesting conversation about augmented reality and shared with the world what they have learned so far about best practices when creating an Augmented Reality space.
Once we understand the user and the type of experience we are trying to create, these are the design principles introduced by Google that will help you build the right experience.
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Where will users find the app? Think about the surfaces available and how your program will fit into the constraints of the environment.
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A key decision when designing your AR application is determining how much space the user needs which can be categorized into three different sizes:
Set reasonable expectations for users so they have an accurate understanding of the amount of space they will need. Activation
The onboarding process needs to be as clear as possible so that users understand what they need to do in this new way.
Determine if the user will be able to easily move the AR objects after they are placed, or if they are in progress.
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Design native object interactions that provide capabilities and feedback so that users understand how these digital objects fit in the context of your real physical space.
Surface feedback Maintain height until user lets go Show drop point Provide feedback on placement Volumetric Interface Design
In the context of interfaces, balance the screen interface with the volume interface design so that you can create a meaningful and useful user experience.
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The world of AR is new for all of us. Let's lead by example and create more solutions to solve our everyday problems using VR. You don't have to go to a gun store to buy an AR-15. Are you surprised? I knew I was when I first ventured into the hobby of building custom AR-15s. Some of you may not know, but building your own AR-15 is very easy. However, if you don't know anything about the process, or where to start, you've come to the right place. I'm going to start this "How to Build an AR-15" series with a list of questions I get asked frequently from people just starting out in the hobby and possibly looking to build their first AR-15.
WARNING! Creating a VR gun is very addictive. Once you start this process, you'll find reasons to build .308 ARs, AR pistols, and long-range precision rifles. You have been warned.
A: There is currently no Federal gun registry, but you should check state-by-state registration laws (for example, New York requires registration of an "assault rifle", including the standard AR-15 rifle).
I smiled after firing the first few shots with the first AR-15 I built for myself. My photo courtesy of paul-vincent.com
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A: The same rules for the sale of private firearms apply to the sale of AR-15 rifles. Check your state's laws.
A: You will need to find a dealer that sells AR-15 lower receivers. The seller said he could be near you, or online.
A: It's long, so relax. Yes and no. All components to build your AR-15 can be shipped directly to your home except for the lower receiver.
The lower receiver of an AR-15 is the only part that is considered a "gun". Therefore, when purchasing a lower receiver for your AR-15 build, you must go through the same process as when purchasing a firearm in your state.
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For example, in my state of Minnesota, if I order a stripped AR-15 lower receiver online, I must provide the seller with a copy of the FFL (Federal Firearms License) and the FFL address mentioned above. In other words, I just need to call my local gun shop and ask them to fax a copy of their FFL to the dealer. The seller will then collect the money from me to the receiver, then send it to my local gun shop. When the gun shop calls to tell me that my lower receiver has arrived, I will go back there and fill out the ATF form to make sure I can legally own the firearm, pay the transfer fee (this fee is usually less than $30) . and got me a new AR-15 receiver under the house (thanks, Minnesota no waiting period for long gun purchases).
If I decide not to order online, and I know a gun store that carries the lower receiver nearby, I can just buy it directly from that store, then fill out the required ATF form, just like I would any other purchase. of firearms.
A: There are many different types of AR-15 models, so this list will not apply to all models. However, I put together a list of materials to build a standard style M-4 AR-15 with a stripped lower receiver, and a stripped upper receiver:
A: With the lower receiver forged, the metal is "broken" into the desired shape while red hot. It softens the metal and makes it very strong.
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The lower receiver billet is machined from a single block of steel and has a more conventional appearance, pleasing to some. It also has a built-in trigger guard, meaning it cannot be removed. It also tends to be more expensive than under counterfeiting. Billet lowers may have enough tolerance that forged lowers, but that does not mean they can be considered "weak".
A: There are a large number of different variants on the market, but not every bottom is produced by a company that has its name on the side. You'd be surprised how many low prices from different companies come out of maybe less than a couple of machine shops.
Considering that almost all AR-15 lower receivers are made to specific tolerances, according to military specifications (mil specifications), my advice is to choose any AR-15 lower receiver that has the markings (or logo) you have in mind. "it's cooler" or more attractive to you personally.
Question: Some barrels say they are chambered in 5.56 and others say they are chambered in .223. What is the difference?
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A: Basically, the rule of thumb is this: a rifle chambered in 5.56 can shoot both 5.56 and .223 ammo. A gun chambered in .223 can only shoot .223 and not 5.56. For complete information on the 5.56 vs. .223, check out this Destinee article.
A: Confused? Yes, this is technical but I'll keep it simple. When choosing a barrel twist ratio, you want to choose one that best matches the type of shots you typically shoot. What ratio, such as 1:7 for example, means that as the bullet travels down the barrel, it will make one complete turn (through the gun) every seven inches.
(Figure 1a) This is a good description of the twist ratio of 1:7 vs. 1:9 at long range through your AR-15.
This is one of the most debated topics about the AR-15 rifle. Personally, I choose to use 1:7 because it gives me the opportunity to shoot heavier rounds. Since 55gr .223 / 5.56 is the most common bullet weight available (it's the weight used in military XM193 5.56×45 ammo), and the one most often fired, it will be about 1:7 or 1:9. I've also been told by a trusted law enforcement source that 1:9 is recommended for knockdown, and 1:7 for hunting and home defense.
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To break it down, 1:7 will do well for shooting lighter and heavier rounds. 1:9, on the other hand, will handle light circles well, and won't do well with anything heavy at long ranges. (Figure 1a)
Photos comparing the different length gas systems, barrels and rail systems of the AR-15. Photo courtesy of laruetactical.com
A: This simply means where the gas port on the barrel is placed. This is also sometimes referred to as a "gas system". Carbon and mid-length gas systems have 16-18 inch barrels and shorter ones, while barrels 20 inches and longer will have rifle length gas systems.
It is important to know the length of your gas barrel because the gas barrel you buy must be the right length to fit. For example, you cannot fit a long carbine gas tube into a barrel with a long rifle gas system. The gas pipe will be very short.
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Question: I'm ready to build my own AR-15 lower receiver but I don't know the steps. How is that?
A: Great question. In the following articles of the "How to Build an AR-15" series, I will discuss how to build your AR-15 (starting with building your lower receiver, and moving from there to the upper AR-15), what tools you use. it will take, and I'll give some tips to help along the way. Stay tuned.
Nate Schultz Nate Schultz is employed in the Law Enforcement division, is a sharpshooter, gun lover and hobbyist. When he is not writing to
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